Neighbourhoods

North Beach: espresso, Beat history and Telegraph Hill

In depth·North Beach

The back story

About North Beach: espresso, Beat history and Telegraph Hill

North Beach is the city’s old Italian quarter, the home of the Beat writers and a neighbourhood of espresso bars, bookshops and late-night bars below Telegraph Hill.

Columbus Avenue

Columbus Avenue cuts diagonally through the neighbourhood. City Lights Booksellers and Vesuvio sit on either side of Jack Kerouac Alley, and Caffe Trieste is round the corner on Vallejo Street. The Beat Museum on Broadway is closed for seismic retrofitting, with reopening expected in 2027.

Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill
Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill. Photo: Sasha • Stories, CC0 via Wikimedia Commons

Washington Square

Washington Square is the neighbourhood’s green heart, with Original Joe’s facing it and Club Fugazi, home of “Dear San Francisco”, nearby on Green Street.

City Lights and Vesuvio on Columbus Avenue
City Lights and Vesuvio on Columbus Avenue. Photo: Carwriter1, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
In North Beach the day starts with an espresso and ends at the bar next to City Lights.

Telegraph Hill

Above it all rises Telegraph Hill and Coit Tower. Walk up from the square, or climb the Filbert Steps from the Embarcadero.

Our advice: come hungry in the evening, book a table on Green Street, and finish with a nightcap at Vesuvio.

Why it's on our list

  • Columbus Avenue
  • Washington Square
  • Telegraph Hill

Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with North Beach: espresso, Beat history and Telegraph Hill before you go.

Location

The ULTIMATE letter

San Francisco in your inbox

An occasional email with new places, events and our latest in-depth articles. No spam, ever.